With a long and troubled history beginning with the Communist uprising in the late 1960’s through to the Islamic insurgency of the 80’s and early 90’s, the high mountains and dense forests of Hala-Bala Wildlife Sanctuary have long been a stronghold for rebels who sought to oppose the authority of the central government. It was not until the early 90′s after a long and drawn out struggle against PULO and other terrorist groups that a temporary peace was finally restored and the troubled region opened up to the outside world. In 1996, Hala-Bala was officially declared a Wildlife Sanctuary.
Hala – Bala is actually a representation of two very different sectors, both of which are separated by a thin margin of forest which borders Malaysia. Hala, on the western side, is mountain which stands around 1400 meters above sea level and forms a natural barrier which encompasses what is now Bang Lang Dam. Bala, on the eastern side, is a collection of hills and steep slopes of which Khao Kaad, the highest point in the sector, stands at a humbled 750 meters above sea level.
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This satellite image shows both Hala and Bala sectors of the sanctuary. The Hala sector, to the left of the photo (bordered by Si Sakorn and Chanae districts), is massive in comparison to Bala, the tiny dark green peninsula-shaped territory sandwiched between the Highway 4062 line and the Malaysian town of Jeli. The Hala forest combines with another national park on the Malaysian side to form a giant forest block.
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This satellite image shows the entire section of Bala Wildlife Sanctuary, beginning at the Highway 4062 sign on the far right hand side and stretching to Phukhao Tong village on the left side. Though barely visible from this range, the Research Station is located a few millimeters to the left of the Highway 4062 sign, right where the road dips. (Zoom in and see it for yourself if you like!)
The crown jewel of the wildlife sanctuary is a tiny patch of lowland forest, totaling a mere six acres of land. This tiny area is perhaps the last remnant of true undisturbed lowland rainforest left anywhere in southern Thailand, and the last bastion for many of Thailand’s most endangered and exciting Sudanic forest birds.
The current bird list for the wildlife sanctuary stands at over 350 species at the time of writing (April, 2011) and no doubt the numbers will continue to increase as more bird surveys are taken of the less accessible regions.
Apart from the birdlife, mammals are also abundant in the area. Tapir, Malayan Sun Bear, Asiatic Golden Cat, Leopard, Barking Deer, Binturong and Asian Elephant are all present in the park. Primates also abound, with Siamang, both Lars and the endemic Agile Gibbon, four species of langars and various macaques recorded in the area. Lucky birders have often heard or even encountered these creatures along the roadsides in the early mornings or late evenings.
A 2006 survey revealed the presence of no less than six Indochinese Tigers in the Bala sector and the number should be double that in the Hala sector. Leopards and panthers also fare well in the park, as do smaller cats such as Marbled Cat and Asian Golden Cat, all of which have been spotted along the roadsides after dark.
Javan Rhinoceros has also been recorded in the sanctuary, although most experts believe it to be a part of a larger population found in the forest block on the Malaysian side.
This review will primarily deal with the birds of the Bala sector. The Hala sector has been closed for a number of years due to the high level of insurgent activity in the areas near Betong, along with the presence of IED’s along the rural roads in the region.
Birding
Fire tuffed Barbet; Giant Pitta; Garnet Pitta; Malaysian Rail Babbler; Bat Hawk; Crested Wood Partridge; Malaysian Peacock Pheasant; this is just a crumb of the giant enchilada when we re speaking of the birdlife one can find in this sanctuary. In comparison to other national parks and wildlife sanctuaries throughout the country, Hala Bala ranks in the top ten for species recorded within it’s protected area. -No wonder it is ranked as the best birdwatching site in all of southern Thailand!
Some of the birds, such as Short toed Coucal and Garnet Pitta geographically exist in no other part in the country while other species, such as the Sooty capped and Horsfield’s Babbler can only be found at this particular site, having long been extirpated from their former haunts in the south due to deforestation and lack of suitable habitat.
To better break things down, we’ll look at it from a statistical standpoint. Hala-Bala Wildlife Sanctuary is home to:
- All but three of the thirteen species of hornbills present in Thailand, including the rare Plain Pouched, Wrinkled and Black Hornbill,
- Nine of the fourteen species of barbets including Thailand’s only record of Fire tuffed Barbet,
- Five of fourteen species of pitta, of which two (Garnet and Giant) are among the rarest in the country and most-wanted on birders lists,
- 24 species of forest babblers, perhaps the largest collection for any site in Thailand, not counting the Malaysian Rail Babbler,
- 23 of Thailand’s 37 species of bulbuls …
- We could sit here making comparisons all day if we wanted to!
All that to say, finding birds in Hala Bala is not at all a problem. Practically anywhere one looks there will be a bird or two peeking out from behind a bush or tree. However, to try to make some sense of the confusion, I’ve broken down the area into zones of interest.
Locations
While most birders will no doubt spend a fair amount of time birding along the 11-kilometer stretch of road which cuts through the Bala wildlife sanctuary, there are a lot of other areas which are worth spending time looking into.
Ranger checkpoint:
Much of the old forest in the area was cleared long before the land was declared a wildlife sanctuary, extirpating most of the forest-dwelling species from the area. However, there are a few interesting species which remain the area; Blue rumped Parrot and White rumped Shama are two birds which are found in the orchards and plantations located just outside the sanctuary. Stripe throated, Streak eared, Buff vented, Olive winged and Orchraecous Bulbuls are active in the canopy and on occasion a bird wave will come through bringing Olive winged Woodpecker, Red throated Barbet, Banded Broadbill and Brown throated Sunbird.
In the evening dozens of hornbills can be seen flying between the valley looking for a good place to roost for the night. It is also a good time to watch out for the Bat Hawk which passes over the valley every evening en route to its hunting grounds northwest of the sanctuary.
At night the area is alive with dozens of Javan Frogmouths calling from within the dense foliage and with a little effort they can be lured out into the open for cracking views. Barred Eagle Owl is present around the back of the ranger bungalows and can be found with the aid of a playback call. A stakeout for the White fronted Scops Owl is only meters down the road on the way towards the Research Station.
Research Station:
The Research Station is divided into two levels. The Wildlife Research Station is situated on the top of the hill and the Flora Research Station is located in the river valley.
Wildlife Research Station:
The Wildlife Research Station is a great place to start the day and most birders who are not already on the trails by 7 AM will find this place to be abundant in bird life as well. Banded Broadbill and Black and Yellow Broadbill can both be heard calling low in the trees almost every day and barbets, leafbirds and woodpeckers can be seen buzzing about in the treetops. The Rosie Apple trees in the back of the cafeteria are magnets for sunbirds, flowerpeckers and spiderhunters and the large dead trees often attract hornbills which gather on the tallest branches to sunbathe on cold mornings.
When figs or other fruits are in season, birding gets ridiculously easy as all one has to do is sit near the fruiting tree and watch the birds come in. On my last trip to Bala, I sat under a fruiting tree for an hour during lunch break and came away with almost 20 species, including Green Broadbill, Scaly breasted Bulbul, Grey bellied Bulbul, Yellow crowned Barbet and Greater Green Leafbird!
At night, Javan Frogmouth can be heard calling from behind the bungalows and on occasion a Barred Eagle Owl will make an appearance near the cafeteria, hunting for mice or baby chickens.
Flora Research Station:
The Flora Research Station is also abundant with birdlife and the experimental garden plots attract many species of insectivorous birds. The tall trees which line the river valley are magnets for hornbills, of which Wreathed, Bushy Crested, Wrinkled and White Crowned Hornbills are the most commonly observed.
At night the forest comes alive with calls of Brown Hawk Owl and Collared Scops Owl, while the large trees near the river play home to Malaysian Eared Nightjar, one of the rarest of all nightjars in Thailand.
Buffy fish Owl can sometimes be found perched in the trees or on large boulders near the river.
The former stakeout for Bat Hawk has since been destroyed after a strong storm blew down the tree it used for nesting. Nowadays, most birders interested in seeing this elusive predator should try waiting near the valley at the ranger checkpoint in the evenings when the bird takes flight to its feeding grounds northwest of the park.
Short nature trail:
There is a short nature trail located in the same vicinity as the Flora Research Station. This trail (about 150 meters long) runs through a small patch of forest next to the river and is surprisingly good for many forest birds. Rufous collared and Banded Kingfisher, Hooded and Blue winged Pitta, Short toed Coucal, Moustached, Abbots, Scaly crowned and Black capped Babbler and Raffles Malkoha are just a few of the fabulous birds which are seen here. Some birders have gotten lucky and found Malaysian eared Nightjar roosting on the ground along the trail during the day as well!
In past times Giant Pitta was regularly heard from the trail but in recent years has moved back into the dense forest on the opposite side of the river.
A Word of Warning: This trail is teeming with leeches, giant wandering ants and other biting creatures, so be sure to wear leech socks and plenty of deet-based repellent!
Long Nature Trail:
This trail begins on the opposite side of the river (the bridge spanning the river has been removed for safety reasons and birders must wade across the river with all their gear) and is around 1800 meters long. The trail meanders through the most exciting terrain in the entire wildlife sanctuary: the level lowland rainforest. The trail has been neglected for years and is in desperate need of repair, with fallen trees blocking parts of the trail and most of the bridges completely useless and rotten. However, those who attempt the trek will be blessed with views of some of the most highly sought after birds in southern Thailand.
Malaysian Rail Babbler, Giant Pitta and Garnet Pitta all co-exist within an area the size of a football field and are often heard calling at the same time. While the Malaysian Rail Babbler and Giant Pitta can be lured in through the use of playback calls, the Garnet Pitta prefers to remain stationary, so often one must venture off the trail and into the forest to find it. -Be sure to wear plenty of protection as the area is rife with leeches, sand flies and other unwanted critters!
To add to that, this trail is arguably the best place in the country to observe forest babblers. One sure way of seeing a wide diversity of babblers is by sitting quietly near a brook from noon until evening. Babblers are gregarious birds and are attracted to water and when the babblers are happily singing and bathing in the shallows, they often attract other birds such as bulbuls and flycatchers as well, making birding both enjoyable and relaxing.
Staying on the trail late in the evening is also a good way to see some of the mammal life which exist in the lowland jungle; Malaysian Tapir and Asian Elephant are present and rangers have even encountered tiger here in the past.
The trail is also loaded with leeches, mites, ticks and other biting insects so be prepared and bring a strong, deet-based insect repellent and sturdy leech socks.
Since the bridge across the river is broken, all provisions and supplies must be brought over by foot. Be cautious of crossing the river after heavy rain as the water level can rise almost instantly and the strong currents and debris in the water can be hazardous to your safety.
Trail 1:
An 800-meter long trail begins at the side of bridge 2 and follows the river through prime broad leaf evergreen forest. Birding on the is much like that of the flora research station trail and has an added bonus of being a daytime stakeout for Gould’s Frogmouth.
Animal Viewpoint:
This area was a site chosen for the construction of a 40-meter high watchtower but the program was scrapped a number of years ago and the money siphoned to repair roads within the sanctuary. Mammals which are encountered here include Siamang, both species of gibbon, Dusky Langar, Asiatic Golden Cat, Binturong and various palm civets. Footprints of tiger have also been photographed in the wet mud along the roadsides in the mornings.
This spot is a particular favorite hangout for hornbill lovers as in the early mornings, Helmeted, Rhinoceros, Great, Plain Pouched and Wreathed Hornbill can be seen perched in the tallest trees, warming up in the rays of the morning sun. During the breeding season, one should listen for the sound of the Helmeted Hornbills smashing their casques into the sides of large boulders. The act is part of the mating display put on by the males. –My, the things one does for love!
Khao Kaad:
The highest point in the Bala sector at 750 meters above sea level, this area is a haven for birds such as Verditer and Pale Blue Flycatcher, Lesser racket tailed Drongo, Asian Fairy Bluebird, Streaked and Scaly breasted Bulbul and numerous raptors such as Crested Serpent Eagle, Rufous bellied Eagle and Wallace’s Hawk-Eagle.
The mammals in the area may be attracted to the exposed earth for its mineral properties, as Asian Elephant, Malaysian Sun Bear and Leopard have been encountered here during late night patrols.
Bridge 3:
There is a small waterfall along the edge of the road which is a popular place for birds to come and bathe in the heat of the day and birders will find this area quite productive as well. Many of the same species seen on Khao Kaad are found here as well, with the addition of Scarlet Sunbird which feasts on the flowers of trees near the bridge.
Wat Phukhao Tong:
The temple was once popular for birders due to it’s abundance of trees but has since been built up and lacks suitable habitat for many of its former winged occupants. However, this is still the only known site in the area for Black and White Bulbul, a bird considered to be very difficult to find by many birders.
Again, as a reminder, please remember to take appropriate measures to protect yourself from critters when walking along the trail.
Toh Moh Community Forest:
This thin stretch of forest borders Malaysia and though rich in wildlife, lacks many of the dynamic lowland species for which Bala is famous.
The road follows a river through open forest for about three kilometers and ends at an aging dyke. Good birds encountered on this trail include Spotted Fantail, Japanese Paradise Flycatcher, Rufous Collared Kingfisher, Jambu Fruit Dove, Horsfield’s Babbler and Fluffy backed Tit-Babbler along with Cinnamon rumped, Scarlet breasted and Diard’s Trogon, Orange backed Woodpecker, Banded Pitta, Black winged Flycatcher and Finsch’s Bulbul.
Malaysian Rail Babbler has been heard calling in the past but as never been seen; interestingly there are no records for Garnet or Giant Pitta from this area.
Halfway along the road, a small trail forks off into the forest and ends at an abandoned French gold mine. I’ve never had much luck on this trail but some birders mention it to be good for trogons. While the mine may be of interest to some visitors, I’d like to stress the danger of entering the aging mine as it is very unstable and could collapse without warning.
Since it is only a community forest and outside the jurisdiction of the wildlife sanctuary, the area is plagued by hunters who enter to trap birds and kill wild pigs and other small game.
Hala sector:
Few birders have ever visited this remote and untamed wilderness, but the reports from the few who have experienced it is coma-inducing: Fire tuffed Barbet, Crested Wood Partridge, Crested Peacock-Pheasant and Great Argus are a few which come to mind. Since the sector has not received regular surveys, the possibility of adding new species to the list is very high.
The area can only be accessed from Betong town in Yala province via the Bang Lang Dam. There is no infrastructure in the park and no roads into the interior, meaning that all provisions must be carried by foot up the steep terrain. The entire sector currently receives about one survey every year or two due to the high level of insurgent activities in the area.
Due to the high casualty rate, the military-run base camp at the foot of the mountain has been closed indefinitely and the area is completely off-limits to all civilians until further notice.
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This satellite image shows the Hala sector of the sanctuary, with Bang Lang Dam in the upper middle of the photo. Highway 4106 connects Yala with Betong and was dubbed “the road of death” due to the high number of IEDs and ongoing insurgency activities in the region.
Directions to Bala Wildlife Sanctuary
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From Haat Yai, follow Highway 43 past Pattani and Narathiwat. Near Narathiwat switch to Highway 4084 heading towards Tak Bai and then to Highway 4057 which will take you to Sunghai Kolok. After going through the town, head out towards the village of Waeng and the Bukita Border Checkpoint (Highway 4057). In Waeng the directions get a little tricky as the highway signs have been removed so one may need to ask for directions to Hala Bala (via Highway 4062) or Sirinthorn Waterfall (pronounced NAM-tok SI-rin-tawn in Thai).
On this map, one can see the township of Waeng located in the top middle of the map. Bala Wildlife Sanctuary is located directly where the Highway 4062 sign is placed on this map.
As I mentioned earlier on in this review, the area is plagued with numerous anti-government insurgency groups and traveling in the region can result in serious injury or loss of life. Please be sure you understand the gravity of the situation and carefully count the cost before embarking on a trip into the region.
Whatever you do, don’t stop to ask for directions at an army checkpoint. The soldiers are usually on high alert and stopping a car at a checkpoint may twitch some itchy trigger fingers.
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The Toh Moh Community Forest is located a few kilometers west of Phukhao Tong village. On this map it is at the end of the white road on the left hand side labeled Highway 4026. The road follows a river which is located near the border with Malaysia.
Accommodations and Fees
Most birders prefer to lodge at the Wildlife Research Station within the wildlife sanctuary. Since it is not a national park, birders should request permission and book a few months in advance before embarking on their trip. To make a reservation, one can send an email to the director of the station via the DNP website, or call 073551901.
The accommodations are clean and comfortable and on par with the standard one would expect from a national park bungalow. Hot water for showers in not always a given and that can be an issue for those who may not be accustomed to the chilling water pumped fresh from the mountains. There is also no air conditioning in the rooms although it’s not like one needs it –the temperature at night drops to a comfortable 18-25 degrees Celsius. The Hala Bala Research Station does not charge a set price for the use of the rooms but leaves it up to the birder to decide how much they decide to donate. The income usually goes towards the upkeep of the facilities.
Some birding tours which have guest who demand modern amenities prefer to stay at the Genting Hotel in Sunghai Kolok town, about 30 minutes drive from the wildlife sanctuary. While the hotel is a little old, the services are sound and the rooms are clean and comfortable. The town also offers an interesting insight to life in border towns in the region and the nightlife of Sunghai Kolok is legendary.
Personal Opinion
Pros: Best birdwatching location in the south; rich habitat supports a number of species found nowhere else in the country; very easy to spot birds; site has potential to add new resident species to the local bird list; staff very accommodating and helpful; good chance of seeing mammals and other animals along the roads.
Cons: High number of insurgents operate in the region, making travel to and from the site very dangerous; area receives a high amount of rainfall for most of the year; entire site teeming with leeches and other biting insects; accommodations at the ranger station may not be to everyone’s liking.
Rating: - Excellent -
The wildlife sanctuary is a real wilderness in every sense of the word. Standing in the forest, one can sense what it is like to be all alone with no one around but just you and naked Mother Nature. The sights, sounds and smells of the forest are invigorating to the soul and will help visitors to reconnect with nature in a way no other place can.
Birders will find this sanctuary to be a birding paradise and by the end of the trip, most birders will feel regret for having to leave such a majestic and awe-inspiring place.
All I can say is Hala Bala Wildlife Sanctuary is a truly enchanting place that has to be experienced to be fully appreciated.
The author wishes to thank Mr. Anton Schnell for his generosity in sponsoring the cost of transportation, accommodations and expenses during the survey of this wildlife sanctuary. This report would not have been made possible without his support.
This page was last updated in October, 2012.
Photo Gallery
To view the gallery in slideshow mode, click on the first photo of the set. Click anywhere outside the photo to end the slideshow.
Useful Links
- Nick Upton’s review of Hala – Bala Wildlife Sanctuary
- Birdlife International: Assessment of Hala – Bala Wildlife Sanctuary
- Return to Birdwatching Sites in Southern Thailand page
- Return to Homepage
